1963 Unibody For Sale

 

Twin turbo charged big block 427. Over 1000 hp, for real. This thing is fast. The below pictures are all current.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Below is a slideshow of the build.

 

List of details:

  • Chassis includes my Dodge Dakota based front suspension with tubular control arms and needle bearing upper cross shaft pivots. Lower arms are tube with Energy Suspension polyurethane bushings, MOOG ball joints, TRW Coil springs (Full height) with plenty of room to lay frame if you were to change to air bags. Airbagit dropped Dakota spindles with my tie rod drops to eliminate bumpsteer, Bilstein shocks, Custom fabricated 1.25″ 4340 Anti Roll bar.
  • Wheels and Tires, Currently has American Racing Torque Thrust II 17-8.5″ on the front with a Yokohama 255/40-17 tire and the rear is a 17-9.5″ with Nitto 555R 275/40-17 Drag Radials. I have an alternative set of Chrome steel wheels. These were built by Rally America and have 49-50 Ford 16″ wheel centers with 16-6″ wheel bands and the rear is 53-54 Ford wheel centers with 8″ wheel bands. Very nice chrome, have a bad set of Riken tires on the front that need to be replaced. The rears have Nitto 555R 275/65-15 tires. Both sets of wheels are included.
  • Engine is very stout. Consists of a 1989 GM 454 block. Stock 4 Bolt Main with ARP stud and bolt kit. Callies Dragonslayer forged 4340 crank, internally balanced and 3.76″ Stroke (427). Bore is 0.040″ Over and has Probe Turbo pistons, Skirts are teflon coated and have the crowns ceramic coated. Rods are Scat H-Beam with upgraded ARP hardware. Fluiddamper. New SFI rated Steel lightweight McLeod flywheel and Ceramic Street Twin clutch (easy to drive and not hard to push) activated by an externally mounted CNC brand slave cylinder and new Stainless Steel lined CNC master cylinder. Heads are Brodix BBO with mild port work, Cometic MLS head gaskets and exhaust gaskets. ARP Head bolts. Cam is a custom grind from Cam Motion (data sheet available) 288 duration at .050 and .640″ Lift. ISKY hydraulic roller lifters. Comp Pushrods. New Ferrea 2.25″ Stainless intakes, Inconel Exhaust. New Valve Springs and Lightweight retainers. Jessel Shaft mounted rocker arms, Jessel Belt drive timing set. Vintage Air FrontRunner drive system with Power Steering and AC. Intake is an Accel StealthRam and uses Accel DFI computer with wide band O2.
  • Headers are custom built 2″ Primary with 1/2″ flanges and V-bands throughout. The headers are Jet Hot coated. Turbos are Powermaster T70 and wastegates are TiAl 44mm and currently running 15# of boost. Under 2800 RPM drives like a normal rowdy Big Block, past that you better be ready. The rest of the exhaust system is 3″ and has Magnaflow mufflers. Sounds healthy but not overly loud.
  • Drivetrain. Transmission is a Tremec 3350 TKO Five Speed with the forward shifter installed. Driveshaft is a 4″ aluminum piece with 1350 U-joints on both ends. Rear axle is a stock housing 9″ to the truck, but is girdled and has a Strange Aluminum carrier with Daytona style pinion carrier. Strange 3.50 gear set on a Detroit True Trac differential. Strange/Currie 31 spline axles and Baer rear disc brakes. Suspension is a 4130 Torque arm set up with a panhard rod. Transverse leaf and Bilstein shocks.
  • Fuel system is a fabricated aluminum tank, Holley Dominator fuel pump, Aeromotive fuel filters.
  • Body work is mostly metal finished. Mods include the 1963 Mercury grille narrowed to fit within the F100 opening. Custom fabricated front bumper, and chrome grill surround. Front opening hood, shaved drip rails and rounded door corners. Dash has filled glove box and ash tray. Fuel filler and stake pockets filled. Body seams welded and filled. Paint is old, it is in need of a respray at this point. It’s House of Kolor Organic Green candy over Orion Silver base with touches of heavy sliver flake.
  • Interior, ’64 Thunderbird seats on custom platforms. Center console is actually the subwoofer box and a custom fabricated arm rest to disguise it. Arm rest flips up for storage and charging ports. Has a Kicker 3 channel amp, custom fabricated aluminum kick panel pods with Polk coaxial speakers. No head unit, just use an MP3 Player or if your phone still has a headphone jack, plug in and enjoy. Flaming River polished Stainless Steel Steering column and Moon metalflake steering wheel. Vintage Air Gen III 4 Vent AC/Heat/Defrost tucked up under the dash.

This is by no means a show winner, it gets used regularly. Reliable and road trip worth. Very comfortable to drive long distance, handles very well.

 

Ball Joint talk

What I wanted to discuss is regarding the screw in MOPAR style ball joint that is very popular with the tubular control arms for the venerable Mustang II suspension.

These two ball joints are very different in how they are supposed to be used

The ball joint pictured at the right is the commonly used K772 MOPAR screw in ball joint used on tubular control arms throughout the industry. If you look up that number you will see it is meant for MOPAR Upper Mid-Sized cars. It is not intended for use as a lower ball joint where it will see tension loads.

The ball joint on the Left is a K719. It has the same threaded body of the K772 but if you notice one very different difference in that body, it encloses much more of the ball stud. This is a true lower ball joint meant for the Mid-Size and larger passenger cars. While it will directly replace your K772 ball joint in the control arm, the stem is larger. This larger stem requires you to machine your spindle to accept it.

While many thousands of cars and trucks are on the road using the K772 as a lower ball joint without failure, we have seen a few. Granted, this is a very robust ball joint, and if you are using a quality joint like the MOOG Problem Solver line, you may never experience a failure. We have, on the other-hand, solved some driveability issues associated with the Mustang II suspension, mainly the nervousness out on the highway but replacing the ball joints with a true lower ball joint. Now don’t take this as the end all-cure all solution to your Mustang II suspension, it’s just something we have experienced. Because the K772 is not meant to be loaded in tension, it can be “sticky” and not let your steering wheel return to center properly.

All of our Mustang II based control arms feature the K719 on the lower, and we machine the spindles to fit. If this seems like an upgrade you would like to make, give us a call and we can take care of you.

More new product in the store

Recently added are dropped spindles, engine mounts and a few other goodies.

Like this, a bolt-in transmission crossmember for stock Model A frames. Allows you to use ’35 up style transmission mounts and a 48-52 Ford F1 brake and clutch pedal set. 

 

Quick hits from around the shop

1955-1959 GM Dakota kits very soon. AND MORE!

Been working on the design for the newest kit to our line. The 1955-1959 GM Truck Dakota kit. We will have this ready by the end of September in two forms. Our standard kit that accepts the stock ’87-’96 Dodge Dakota componentry and this will be our first venture into a tube control arm and coil over front end! Yes, you read that right we are going to offer tube control arms very soon. I have been working on the design and the fixturing to get these to a reasonable cost. So look for an official release of the newest kits very soon.

We have also been working on engine mounts and bolt on anti-roll bar mounts. I have some almost ready to go for Ford and Chevy engines in the 35-56 F100 kits. I need to check fitment on the others before we release them.

 

 

Instruction sheets for the 65-66 F100s

I have to apologize for not getting this done sooner, but here they are. A real set of instructions for you guys.

CLICK HERE FOR THE LINK TO THE INSTRUCTIONS

Zeroing in on the 53-56 Kits

Industrial Chassis Inc Dodge Dakota based IFS Kit

Industrial Chassis Inc Dodge Dakota based IFS Kit

The first run of the newest generation Dakota kits for the 53-56 F100s will be run by the end of this week. We already have a handful of pre-orders. Look for them to be listed in the store this weekend!

New kits on the horizion

I have frames for 1953-56 Ford F100 and 1955-59 GM trucks sand blasted and ready for prototyping. Stay tuned here and on our Facebook page for updates.

Customer’s Rides Page

Have one of our kits installed in your ride? Send in pictures or links to or of your stuff with a short descriptio and I will post it in the new tab under “Photo Library”

Taken by a friend at the HAMB Drags

Taken by a friend at the HAMB Drags

1953-64 Studebaker frame

We have been working on a complete replacement frame for the Studebaker coupe. We had built a complete frame for a customer a few years back where we integrated one of our Studebaker clips and an early C4 Corvette rear suspension. We also learned what does and doesn’t work to make a frame that fits the stock body without modification. Well, very few and simple modifications anyway. Those tiny foot-well boxes behind the front seat have got to go. What we are delivering is a frame with significant improvements in strength. And almost all the stock body mounts are located in stock locations and stock body rubbers are used. No need to alter your front fenders, stock components fit.

Straighter frame rails and more clearance for exhaust systems. We keep the entire frame profile slim for good ground clearance as well as give you room for future modifications. We made the rear kickup quite a bit different by utilizing more space under the stock floor. This gives  us better places to attach the triangulated four bars and still not have to modify the floor. This rear kick up is also slightly narrower so that if you decide to do a mini-tub on the rear you have frame clearance to run up to a 275 wide rear tire on a 9″ wheel.

Full Frame for 53-64 Studebaker coupes.

Full Frame for 53-64 Studebaker coupes.