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Site updates!

Been working on the site today. I added a whole new page, look at the tool bar at the top and notice the TECH FILES tab. In the drop down of that button you will find information and installation sheets related to each of the front ends we use. It’s a work in progress but, there are now downloadable PDF files of the old instruction sheets. Stay tuned for more!

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Fab-table fab

Been a busy few months here, this spring has been interesting for sure.

We had been without a large fab table since Adam pulled up stakes last year. The small setup table had been good enough for the last year but now we have new jobs coming in and the need for a new table was paramount. I prefer a larger flat sheet table with threaded holes for attaching fixtures and clamping down components, the last table had random holes that fit the individual fixtures I built, the new one has a grid for more universal measurement and hold downs.

I started off by deciding exactly how large I wanted it to be. My last table was 4X16 foot and was perfect for building narrow classic truck frames. It was a bit narrow for some of the other cars we were contracted to build. This new table is 5X12 and only 20″ off the floor. The deck is 1/2″ A36 steel and reasonably flat and the frame is made from 8″X 1/4″ channel iron.

Here is a few drawings of what I intended to build.

 

While waiting for the steel to show, I plasma cut all the legs and cut all the gusset tubing and reinforcing materials.

Just as I wrapped up the cutting and the new top and beams showed up and got to cutting the beams into the correct lengths and then cut forklift holes for moving in the future and a series of “keyholes” in the side beams to attach different fixtures or just chain binders for straightening, repair or just holding down unruly frames and assemblies.

With all the parts cut and prepped, the layout begins and the sub assemblies get welded up and test fit.

Now the real assembly begins, I started by squaring one end and inserting the end gusset tubing and welded it solid.

I then installed the first of the two center support beams, squared it, diagonally measured it and welded it in place. Then moved to the second support beam and did the same procedure.

Last was the other end beam and gusset. It went in surprisingly well, only needing a bit of tension to take the twist out of the side beams. Of course I diagonally measured each cell of the frame as I went and also checked for squareness overall. It was square to less than 1/16″.

Frame done and square I installed the center leg and support then the four perimeter legs. Rolled it over and welded everything from the top.

Quick coat of paint and install the swivel feet, level the frame and put it in it’s final resting place.

The table top was placed on the frame and as luck would have it, my plate was very flat. Only minor waves which was a bit of a surprise. Instead of welding the top to the frame I decided to bolt it down with flat head hardware tapped into the frame. Four holes on each of the end beams and the two center beams hold it in place nicely. I also scored a heavy centerline mark in the surface to aid in building and fabricating.

The last task before put into use was to drill and tap 168 1/2-13 holes in the table surface.

 

Now the fun begins! Building new fixtureing and tooling. But at least we have a solid base to work from now.

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Just gimme some traction!

Kevin brought his pro-built ’32 Roadster to us to solve a traction issue.

He had the car built a few years back by another shop here in town. When they set up the car they used common street rod parts but set them up at a ride height they were not intended to be used at. The rear was set up with a triangulated four link and Aldan coil overs. Even with sticky slicks, he couldn’t get decent 60′ times due to the tires dancing and skipping around.

We set the car up on the rack and started measuring things and found he had -65% anti-squat! It’s a wonder he could drag race this car at all. We even tried doing a smokey burn out but could barely leave black marks on the pavement. Notice the exhaust getting pinched between the lower bar and the frame.

We discussed our options and Kevin decided to ditch the under car exhaust for a cone/lakes header arrangement and that freed up the under side for our favorite, the torque arm. I crunched some numbers and determined we needed to shorten the rear links and also raise them about 2″ from their original mounts. With the 39″ long fabricated torque arm and new lower mounts (plus a new panhard) we were able to deliver a 138% positive anti-squat!

Kevin took the car out for a test drive and was very pleased at how much more controlled the car felt. The dancing deuce is no more!

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Curtis Style Hairpins, built to order

We just built this Curtis style hair pin set for a customer. He wasn’t happy about the quality he was getting from other sources so after relaying some dimensions we have these.

Need a pair just like these? $200.00 for the set as you see them.

Need something a bit different? Drop us a line!

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Machine tool repair and rebuilding

I was given a derelict, Italian made cold saw by a very generous customer who owns an aviation repair shop. He could no longer use the machine as the guard was broken. I sat on it for years  and finally got the thing wired up to see if it even worked, it works just fine except for the coolant pump which seized up and is very obsolete. Without coolant the very expensive blades do not last at all.

I finally had enough of a lull in customer work to put some work on this machine. The guard was held on with a plastic collar. This collar has to have a quick release to make changing the cutting blade easier and it had to be fairly compact to maximize the cutting area of the blade. I found a grinder guard with a nice over-center release mechanism I could re-purpose and put in a day of labor and head scratching to build this aluminum collar with a double jointed hinge that works very well.

With the mechanical pump being obsolete, I could have repaired it but chose to install a more modern electric coolant tank and foot pedal switch. I drilled and tapped the base for a fitting in the back of the original sump and fabricated a new tray to mount the new Little Giant sump pump. I then enclosed the front and sides of the cabinet with 0.060″ aluminum panels held on by Dzus fasteners in case I need to get access to the pump. The panels should keep the majority of the dirt and grime that makes my “dirty room” what it is.

Notice the small foot switch inside the cabinet. I sourced that from Mc Master Carr for $25.00.

The original cover for the coolant reservoir was broken and filthy. I tried to save it but gave up and sliced up a section of 1/4″ aluminum and machined the sump tray on one side and punched a few holes in it to mimic the stock cover. Also needed to make some hardware to hold it down tight.


And it’s ready for service!

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1963 Corvette fan shroud fab

Chuck’s Speed Center brought us a nifty fab job for this super 70’s built Corvette. First off we really liked this car, a bit rough around the edges and big fender flairs over wide rubber covered “daisies” all hiding a healthy high compression big block backed by a Tremec TKO five speed. There was tons of chrome under the hood but the poor radiator just wasn’t cutting it. The guys over at Chuck’s installed an aftermarket radiator for a ’65 but the fan shroud for the same just didn’t work.

I attempted to make the stock chrome shroud work,  it was too chopped up and didn’t fit that well. I made a few cardboard patterns and a false start but ended up with this nice little bit of aluminum. Fits very well and pulls some serious air through the radiator now.

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9th Annual Open House Party

WHEW! What a blow out!

Three weeks ago I could not have told you if we were going to be able to do this but everything pulled together at 10 after the last minute. Aaron and Jim smoked their pork to perfection all over again. Lorna and Loretta worked without reward and Nick Flores did an 11th hour DJ for us. Fantastic.  We figure we served over 120 people, and some even got second helpings.

Chip raffled off a $150 gift certificate with a 50/50 drawing, and we were able to kick back some extra $ to the help.  Terry McG won the whole deal, congratulations!

I had quite a few ask what our demo was going to be but because of my work schedule I wasn’t able to finish the helve hammer and shrinker stretcher stands in time. But what I did accomplish got rave reviews. Even had one of our friends want to take the hammer home and display it in his living room. I did see people experimenting with the tools, that’s always cool. We have always been hands on around here so seeing Tom Roth showing the next generation of metal bashers how a shrinker and bead rollers work was pretty cool.

Let’s hope this next year is much better than this one and for our 10th annual open house we can do something truly special

Steve

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Rat Rod Repair

Jessy came to us with his newest acquisition, a 1927 ish Chrysler sedan. It had made the rounds a bit, something about this car going 127 on the salt and being solid build and not a “rat rod” in the description. Well, I suppose you can say anything in this world but I can assure you this car was not capable of exceeding the posted speed limit on our inter city freeways. Jessy complained about the dreaded “DEATH WOBBLE”  that had suddenly reared it’s ugly head.

I took the car for a drive after measuring and giving the car a once-over. Like hitting a rev limiter at 56 MPH the front end started to shake, not a tank slapper but a wheel dance! Both front wheels started hopping in an alternate leap of joy consequently scaring the crap out of the occupants they are suspending. Not good.

We tried a few tricks but the front end was poorly thought out and worn out. The axle we assume is from an early 60’s Chevy van, the brakes were Volvo?  The leaf spring they chose to use was for a trailer and rated far too stiff for automotive comfort. The shocks while normally acceptable were mounted in such a way they could not control the wayward wheels. You can see someone added a panhard rod to try and tame the issue to no avail. It had to die, we killed it. No other choice.

A face only it's mother might accept
Wes giving the old axle the heave ho!

SoCal forged axle, Bilstein chrome mono-tube shorties and some other choice bits were spec-ed. We trimmed back the frame to give it a more streamline appeal instead of the no-buck and low thought styling it currently had. We tried to use a stock Model A axle, undropped with a set of modified 1935-1940 Ford front wish bones. Because of the mounting point locations and the ride height of the car we had to ditch the idea. Just didn’t look right.

So with consultation of the owner we decided to go with the new So Cal forged dropped axle and upgrade to the Lincoln style drum brakes. Just a few hours of labor and the wave of a magic wand POOF! We had success. A 6″ shorter wheel base, now 115 inches long, slightly wider track width, improved brakes and most of all it actually drove nice.