We have been building and stocking some parts. Not everything is back. Here is a list of what’s in stock right now.
1953-56 Ford F100 Dakota kit
1957-60 Ford F100 Dakota kit
1961-64 Ford F100 Dakota kit
1965-66 Ford F100 Dakota kit
1947-1955 GM (AD) Dakota kit
Early Oldsmobile engine mounts
Model A trans crossmember F1 Style
1932 Ford K-legs Straight (flat floor)
1932 Ford K-legs Bent (stock floor)
1932 Ford Full X-member (stock floor)
Studebaker stuff is not on the list of products to build. Our fixturing was damaged during our move and it’s low volume enough to not want to re-create the fixture.
We are contemplating a run of tubular control arms for the Dakota to be used with coil overs. We have a special kit to work with these arms that can be ordered with the tube set that simplifies installation. Tube arms for Coil overs are going to be a bit expensive because of the limited runs. The crossmember we have special for the tube arms is a bit cheaper because there are not spring pockets. You will still need spindles, brakes, rack and pinion, and coil overs to complete the front suspension kit.
We are in preparations to be at the 2017 LA Roadster show in Pomona, CA at the Fairplex on June 17-18th (Fathers Day weekend) in two locations this year. We will have our indoor booth again this year, but will also have a spot out in the swap area.
So far we plan on bringing out three ’32 frames with our full X members with show pricing. One will be pinched for 28/29 Model A use. We will also have our accessory K-member legs, stock style brake pedal sets and other bolt on chassis parts.
If you want to pre-order any of the product and have us deliver at the show, give us a call @ 866-553-8996
Wrapping up the next phase in Courtney’s Sedan build up we needed to securely mount the steering box, brake and clutch system. With cowl steering there are some inherent issues to deal with like pedal placement and couple that with an engine mounted high in the frame and make it a manual trans! Well, space is at a premium. Poking the master cylinders through our newly fabricated and clean firewall wasn’t an option and the steering box takes up some real estate so moving the cylinders to the right side of the car is the solution we chose.
The brake and clutch pedals operate through concentric shafts housed in an aluminum tube. The brake tube is supported inside the aluminum mounting tube with PEEK plastic bushings. The inside of the brake tube is machined smooth and it supports the clutch shaft. The clutch shaft itself is made from 4340 bar stock and has three machined journals for needle bearings to ride in. You will notice there are three master cylinders. Two of which operate the brakes through a balance bar system like you would find on a race car. Brake bias is achieved through threading the balance bar left or right which moves the spherical ball mount inside the bellcrank giving a differential force advantage on one cylinder over the other.
The steering gear in this case is a late 60’s to mid 70’s MOPAR steering box with a custom made pitman arm.
Last left off with the frame fab, we have done a ton since.
This HAMB thread covers quite a bit of the progress: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=404411
This is one of those things that gets overlooked in the details. The aftermarket has come up with some stellar components and some not so stellar. But when you use high volume production parts, your car will look just like everyone elses. This car does use SoCal hair pins and a SoCal forged heavy beam axle but that’s about where it all ends.
This car runs the spring behind the axle, what is commonly known as “suicide” and requires special batwings or hair pins to mount the spring and carry the entire load of the front of the car. Not one to skimp out we cut and machined a nice pair for this car. Our initial mock up was using the supplied SoCal stainless steel pieces. Very nice with a shock mount integrated. Just not the parts we really wanted.
With a way to attach the spring to the axle, we needed to attach the hair pins to the frame. The shape of the frame plus the location gave us a few different options. Most people would weld a tube or bung into the frame to attach a HEIM or bushing to. We opted for stainless steel tie rod ends from So Cal and fabricated this nifty little plate that cancels the angle between the frame and hair pin.